I love travelling and there are so many places on my bucket list, but Central Asian countries were not included – they aren't that popular and there’s language barrier. But a trip to Almaty (the old capital of Kazakhstan) last September changed my mind. From breathtaking natural sceneries, unique culture, to great food, the city has so much to offer, all packed with a laid-back allure and great safety, at an affordable budget. While it has been more than half a year since the trip ended, the vivid memories still live rent free in my head, so I decided to share the details of this underrated place.
Nature
Natural sights should be on the top of your list if you visit Kazakhstan, as this huge landlocked country offers diverse terrains, from mountainous areas covering Altay and Tian Shen, lakes and rivers, desert, to vast steppes. The southeastern area, Almaty Region, is a several-hour drive away from the old capital. With the help of a great local guide, I visited Big Almaty Lake, Charyn Canyon, Lake Kaindy, a forest with rivers (which I forgot the name, but is also beautiful) and Lake Issyk and Almaty Botanical Garden, which is near or in the urban area.
Big Almaty Lake
Let’s start with Big Almaty Lake, a natural alpine reservoir surrounded by mountains. We left the hotel early as it takes a few hours to drive from the capital to the place. It is definitely one of the must-go places, and even the scenery along the drive is amazing – we can see the horses and cattle grazing on the grassy slope while driving. As a city dweller I’ve never seen this, so everything is new and exciting. On the way there’s a huge water pipe running from the top of the snow-capped rugged mountains far away to the lower lands, supplying water to different regions. It was an early September autumn, so some trees and shrubs started turning bright ochre or rust brown, forming a great contrast to the clear blue sky. When I got there, I was deeply amazed by the scenery – the lake is like a big smooth turquoise cabochon, quietly nestled in a circle of verdant mountains. Across the azure sky are the fluffy white clouds. Nature has indeed crafted this lake with tenderness.
Charyn Canyon
While being viewed as a smaller counterpart of the Grand Canyon in the USA, Charyon Canyon doesn’t fail to impress visitors with its own magnificence. With the rugged relief, peculiar rocks made with weathered sedimentary rocks in shades of rust and red, you’d believe you’re in Mars until you notice the teal river flowing between the rocks and splashing the stones, and the trees and pink flowering shrubs that thrive in the dry climate. It’s best to join the on-site tour to take you to the canyon, as the Park is quite huge.
Lake Kaindy
Another highlight of the trip is Lake Kaindy, not only because of its unique beauty, but also how we got there. The Lake is a few hours away from Charyn Canyon, so we went there the same day. As we got closer to the destination, the road became more uneven and rugged, as we were in rural areas, where small villages dotted along the road and cattles and horses roamed free in the grasslands. But the trip to the Lake didn't stop here – we would need to go up the hills, then down the slopes to get there, and there were two options: hike around 40 minutes, or ride the horses. We chose the latter, though I’ve never ridden a horse before. It sounded scarier than it was – the on-site guides led and assisted us, and as long as you follow the instruction and stay calm, you’re good to go. And it was actually quite fun.
Finally we got there and saw the Lake. If the allure of Big Almaty Lake lies in its bright tenderness, then the appeal of Lake Kaindy stems from its mysterious atmosphere. Born from an earthquake, the Lake is a dam filled with mountain river. Spruce tree trunks rise from the bottom of the lake, and the cold water helps keep the dead trees intact, making the scene melancholic with a touch of eeriness. It was an overcast day, and somehow it fits well with the Lake.
Almaty Botanical Garden and Lake Issyk
With some time left in the trip, our local guide took us to Almaty Botanical Garden and Lake Issyk. The sizable garden is in the city area, and is nice for a refreshing walk. There are different paths lined with various types of trees, which made me wish I could recognize the plants and appreciate the beauty. I imagine the garden would look better if it’s spring or autumn, but still the blooms and the swans in the pool delighted me. As for Lake Issyk, it is close to the city, and there are people strolling and chilling out in their tents. We did what the locals do, and enjoyed some moments of quiet and peace.
Culture and architecture
With a history dating back to the bronze age, being a part of the Silk Road, and a past of Russian and Soviet ruling, Kazakhstan has a rich cultural heritage ranging from Eurasian influences to indigenous nomadic culture. In Almaty, the country’s vibrant economic and cultural hub, you can find traces of history anywhere, from the buildings lining the clean pavements, church and mosque, to parks and metro stations depicting the past and present of the country.
Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen and Ascension Cathedral
We visited the Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, which includes The Monument to Panfilov Heroes, the Eternal Flame, and Ascension Cathedral on the first day of the trip. The Monument acts as a memorial to Soviet soldiers who stopped the fascist invasion in WWII, and the Eternal Flame is dedicated to the Great Patriotic War. The Ascension Cathedral is a colorful Russian Orthodox church which is said to be built with wood and without nails. Light yellow walls are paired with candy colored domes with golden decorations. I knew Orthodox churches are usually ornate, but I was still delighted as it was the first time I visited one. The interior is alluring in a solemn manner – believers pray and contemplate in an intimate space with sparkling chandeliers, vibrant murals of saints with extensive use of gold paint, dotted with stained glass windows.
Central Mosque
Islam has been the main religion of Kazakhstan for more than 1000 years, so there are mosques around the country. The one we visited is considered the central one in the city. Of course there are bigger, prettier mosques across the globe, but you can still sense the peace and quiet in the space. With gold domes paired with pure white walls, the architecture looks particularly good on a clear day. Inside includes a big prayer hall decorated with teal and red carpets and a big chandelier, women’s praying room and other religious facilities. We stayed for a while after having a glimpse of the spiritual practice of the devotees.
A. Kasteyev State Museum of Arts and Central State Museum of Kazakhstan
As an art and history lover, museums are a must-go when I travel. We visited A. Kasteyev State Museum of Arts and the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan. The art museum displays mainly Kazak, Russian and soviet art, along with some east asian and european art pieces. While I don’t know anything about Kazak paintings, I have the gut feeling that they are somewhat influenced by soviet art, and there’s strong whimsical melancholy in it, maybe a result of the turbulent history. We also visited the Central State Museum, where you can see the artifacts of Kazak history. It is noted that it’s not allowed to take photos in the museum, and one thing notable is that when the local guide tried to explain what’s written in the hall (the captions are written in Kazakh) in Chinese, the museum sent their own guide to elaborate, and then her words were translated by our guide. They care a lot about how their history is interpreted and the people who interpret them.
Almaty Metro
Though we mainly travel by car, we took some time to travel by train in Almaty, as we’d like to see the difference between the local one and the one back in Hong Kong. While the architecture is standardised and each station is differentiated by colors in Hong Kong, in Almaty each station, which architecture is based on the Soviet aesthetic, has its own theme, from displaying the country’s history with aerospace development to dedication to ancient personality. There are prettier railway stations elsewhere, but with the efficient service and the clean interior, it surely is a good experience in the city.
First President’s Park
Initiated by Kazakhstan’s first president Nursultan Nazarbayev, the Park spans 73 hectares with diverse flora and fauna. Walking towards the Park you’ll be welcomed by a huge fountain and a gate with pillars. The place is quiet on a weekday afternoon, and we enjoyed seeing the lush green trees and cute creatures like squirrels and birds. As we went uphill we could see the majestic Tien Shan mountains and the city view while resting in a domed pavilion.
Independence Monument
We also went to the Independence Monument, the symbol of Kazakhstan. The Square includes relief walls depicting the history of the country, statues of two children on horses, an old man (Sage-sky), and a woman (Mother Earth) in traditional clothing. They represent the origins of the people. In the center of the Square is a stele with a sculpture of ‘Golden Man’ on a leopard with wings, the national symbol of Kazakhstan, at the top of it.
The falcon show
A country with strong nomadic roots, one of the ways for Kazak to survive in the past is to hunt with birds of prey. Nowadays while more and more locals adopt the urban life, the practice of hunting is reflected through the falcon show. In the performance we saw the falcons and owls flying and aiming for the targets, and they are truly fierce hunters, everything happens within seconds swiftly and once you gain the focus again, they already gobbled up the piece of meat the performers offered.
Kok Tobe
The trip is also complemented with a trip to Kok Tobe, a mountain 1100 metres above the sea level, with a TV tower. We drove there to see the panoramic view of the city, but cable cars are also available. At the top of the mountain there is a square for performances and a recreational park. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t that good, so the views were a bit gloomy.
Food
Dining in Kazakhstan
No trip is completed without delicious local food, and the trip to Almaty is no exception. With strong nomadic roots, Kazak cuisine is meat-heavy and hearty, usually consists of meat dishes, laghman (noodle soup with meat), various types of bread, fresh fruit, hot tea, and horse meat and kumis (fermented mare or camel’s milk) are consumed. We have never tried these before, but still we decided to dine like locals, and we’re glad we did that. Some of the restaurants we dined in were Sandyq, Auyl and Abay, which offer fine local cuisine. Horse meat tasted a bit tart and savoury, and soup is surprisingly good, without the strong taste. The noodles are soft and smooth, and the meat is tender and juicy, not overcooked at all. The hot fresh bread (bawyrsaqs) served with the sour cream is one of the best bread I’ve ever had. We tried 2 kinds of kumis and both are refreshingly sour and the consistency is less thick than I thought. Fresh salad and fruit are easily found during the trip, so if you’re a vegetarian you can still manage to have some decent meals with the vegetable dishes, fruit, nuts, bread and dairy products, in supermarkets and restaurants.
Green Bazaar
When travelling, I like to visit the local markets to see the food they sell to get some understanding of their culture. Green Bazaar is a popular tourist’s place, and it sells fresh local vegetables and fruits, meats, dairy products, nuts and dried fruit, clothing, and some traditional handicraft goods. The sellers offered us some really big slices of cantaloupe. I usually don’t eat it as it makes my throat feel weird, but I still tried. It was surprisingly delicious, and is not too sweet. We also bought some dried fruit and they also tasted great.
And that’s it about my trip to Almaty, Kazakhstan. It is truly an eye-opening experience, with all the cultural and culinary experience, adventures in nature, and of course the photos and videos taken. My heart is so full and as of writing this, I have this urge to revisit the country, and hope to visit more ‘unfamiliar’ places, to let people know there are so many great underrated cultures and experiences apart from the usual European or North American countries we know. There’s more in this world and life is too short to limit yourself to the Eurocentric travelling experiences.