When I was a kid I visited China once, but the memory is blurry – think old streets and buildings under hazy skies, and meals offered at cheap prices… the common stereotypes you may call them. Yet my view towards China changed after a 3-day spring getaway to Guangzhou last March. This laid-back Southeastern Chinese city is embodiment of well-preserved tradition and economic progress, showcasing revitalized architecture, spectacular skyline, great food culture, connected by convenient metro system. Read on for a relaxing virtual tour.
Sights of revitalization and progress
Shamian Island
Our trip started after a scrumptious dim sum lunch near the hotel and throughout the trip we travelled by metro, making all the places we went highly accessible. The first stop is Shamian Island. Located near Pearl River and known for quaint European architecture and tranquil ambience, it has been a crucial port for foreign trade since Song Dynasty. The Island used to be French and English concessions in 1859–1943, so clusters of colonial architecture can be found. From consulates and financial organizations to historical events, it’s s one of the notable places in this part of history, and now it is one of the tourist spots protected by the government for the cultural significance.
It was a weekday afternoon, so there weren’t many people. We walked down the quiet tree-lined pavement and appreciate the details of historic site, from a beige church with vibrant stained glass windows to brick buildings with arches and pastel-colored balconies with tiffany lamps. Spring awaken the blossoms in the shrubs, adding bright hues along the paths. Bronze sculptures of children in traditional Chinese and European clothing dotted the area, representing the cultural exchange and integration of the two groups. While the architecture reflects the past in the truest form, small businesses like chic cafes and shops pop up, transforming the place into a hub for young locals. I wish it wasn’t overcast that day, so there would be beams of sunlight casting on the place.
Yong Qing Fang
Yong Qing Fang is another place that shows the harmonious blend of urban development and old historical architecture. An area with distinct Cantonese-style buildings which include shops and corridors on the floor level and the rest is for residential use, it is revitalized and turned to a hub of trendy cafes, restaurants, shops selling design / cultural goods, and of course a photogenic spot. Young people dressed in stylish clothing or sometimes hanfu (Chinese traditional clothing) come here to take a snapshot or two, and hang out in cafes. A Cantonese opera museum is also located in the hub.
We visited there two times. While at daytime you immerse yourself in the historic allure of local architecture, the finesse of quiet Lingnan gardens, and get to known the culture of Cantonese opera, visiting Yong Qing Fang after dark is the electrifying experience you can’t miss – ambient light installation and string lights on parasols of outdoor dining areas brighten up and tinge the space and neutral-colored buildings in the most possible vibrant way. The highlight is the traditional Chinese bridge near the water though – its base is illuminated and forms a crescent-like illusion with its reflection on water, as if the gilded moon has descended and immersed in the waters, giving the mortals a close look at its glow. It’s the poetic imagination towards the celestial object realized in a simple yet effective way.
Liuhuahu Park
Speaking of being poetic, Lingnan gardens are a must if you visit Guangzhou, e.g. the renowned Baomo Yuan and Yu Yin Garden. These gardens adopt the traditional Chinese elements in the way that suits the regional subtropical climate, and sometimes with European elements like stained glass. We didn’t visit the abovementioned ones due to limited time, but I still wanted to visit a similar one, so we went to Liuhuahu Park for a quick fix. It’s a sizeable park with some older corners and facilities, but it is well maintained and clean. People were doing workouts, taking photos of nature and the park, and taking a stroll on another leisurely morning.
The park is designed with a range of style, from traditional Chinese to European, which reflects in both the architecture and the plants. You can spot roses and palm trees in the same garden, a European-styled classic white building with reflections near the lake, and Lingnan gardens with quaint corridors, white washed walls with jade terracotta cladding, and elegant potted green plants. I’m no expert in Chinese gardens and architecture, but I still enjoy the peaceful moments of connecting with nature and appreciating how humans tend the plants with care and creativity.
Peasant Movement Training Institute
Formerly a Confucian Temple, Peasant Movement Training Institute is one of the historic landmarks of Communist Party, where Mao Zedong led courses on revolution, peasant issues, rural education etc. Now the Institute is also a museum of the event, though most of the explanation is in simplified Chinese. Nowadays the place has become a photogenic spot for its traditional architectural details and red walls, it is even nicknamed as the ‘little Forbidden City’. People visit for a good photo or two and a good place to get a glimpse of the ancient architecture.
Zhujiang New Town
Guangzhou isn’t all old historical buildings, it’s got some rapid urban development as well. Hop in the train and go to Zhujiang New Town, and you’ll see the fruitful result of Chinese economic growth. A new central business district, the Town is full of brand new shiny skyscrapers perching along the river. When night falls and city lights go up, a scene of cyberpunk and prosperity emerges, which no one would associate with mainland China or could imagine years ago. Liede Bridge crosses over Pearl River and connect two districts in Guangzhou. The Haixin Bridge can also be spotted, which forms a sleek white glowing arc over the river. Night cruises are available, which visitors can enjoy the spectacular view. The star of the show is Canton Tower, a 602m-tall observation tower. The twisted latticed building captures numerous attention with the color-changing glow.
Cantonese cuisine – the art of subtlety
A trip to any Chinese city wouldn’t be complete without great food, as the country boasts the bounty of nature, rich culinary history and diversity. But among all the regional cuisines, Cantonese food, originated in Guangzhou and surrounding areas in Pearl River Delta like Hong Kong and Macau, steals the show. With a focus on fresh produce, subtlety of flavours and umami, the cuisine is destined to blow your mind. After all there’s even the old Chinese saying that goes, 'be born in Suzhou, live in Hangzhou, eat in Guangzhou, die in Liuzhou'.
A quick overview
With seafood and livestock raised and fresh vegetables and grain cultivated in the region, Cantonese cuisine focuses on the freshness, umami, and original flavour of the various ingredients, emphasizing the delicate balance of flavours. Seasoning is kept light in the cuisine, with soy sauce, rice wine, ginger, spring onion, salt, and sugar being the main spices and condiments. A range of cooking methods are adopted, but steaming (cooking food with moist heat) and stir-frying (heating food by stirring ingredients quickly with a bit of oil in a wok) stand out. Steaming can be dated back to 5000 BCE, and it requires the high level of freshness of food, exacting balance of time and heat , which should result in perfectly cooked food that’s umami-rich and with tender texture. Stir-fried food is known for the versatility in terms of food pairing and wok hei, the caramelized and charred fragrance, taste, and texture brought by the high flame. This requires high level of skill as the chef will need to make sure the food is constantly in touch with the heat source without burning them.
Food to try
Steamed seafood and meats
Guangzhou is a land of bounty, so fresh ingredients are readily available. Steamed seafood and meats should be on your list. The choices are endless, ranging from fish, crab, savoury egg custard, meat patty, to whole chicken. Think flaky, tender fish that is seasoned with the umami-rich soy sauce, shredded ginger and scallion, perfectly heated smooth and creamy egg that goes well with a bowl of steamed rice, and the whole bird with minimal seasoning to reflect the freshness of the meat.
Stir-fried dishes
Like steamed dishes, options of stir-fried dishes are again endless, as when it comes to pairing of ingredients, the world is the chef’s oyster. Balance is the name of the game though, a protein item or two get paired with vegetables, mushrooms, or sometimes nuts. Hearty grain / main dishes can be spotted, like fried rice and sliced beef with silky rice noodles. The flavours range from savoury to spicy or savoury-sweet, depending on the seasoning and the condiment. This is also your chance to experience the allure of wok hei, where the vibrant flavours are enhanced with a hint of smokiness.
The yum cha experience
No Cantonese cuisine experience is completed without yum cha, which you enjoy a variety of exquisite dim sum, rice or noodle dishes, along with Chinese tea. This is usually served during daytime, in the evening most restaurants serve steamed, stir-fried dishes and more. Dim sum is as diverse as it gets – to begin with, there are savoury buns like steamed BBQ pork bun and sweet ones like sweet salted egg yolk custard bun. And then there’s cheong fun (steamed rice rolls), that delicate silky rice roll sheet wraps seafood, meats, vegetables etc. Not to mention dumplings, which come in different sizes, shapes, and filling. The dough and wrappings can be made of flour, wheat starch, rice flour or even dried tofu sheets. Signature items include steamed shrimp dumplings, siu mai made with pork and shrimp, and different restaurants have their own ways to elevate a dish. Pair it with congee, stir-fried noodles or rice, and your heart and stomach will be full. Don’t forget the tea though, there are 6 types of Chinese tea, categorized according to how the tea leaves are processed. The leafy, pleasantly bitter caffeinated drink can keep you invigorated and cleanse your palate in between dishes.
Siu mei (Cantonese BBQ meats)
Another signature dish of the cuisine is siu mei, where different kinds of meats are roasted in a big oven. Common options include char siu (the seasoned pork is roasted into a charred, savoury-sweet goodness), crispy pork belly (expect tender meat with crackling on top), soy sauce chicken, roasted goose, and so on. Pair it with hot steamed white rice and some leafy choy sum stalks, and call it one of the best comfort food in Cantonese cuisine.
Claypot rice
Speaking of comfort food, you can’t miss the claypot rice, especially if you visit the city in winter. The rice is paired with different meats (fresh or preserved) and sometimes mushrooms, then everything is steamed in a claypot. It’s usually served with sweet soy sauce, and don’t forget the scorched rice crust at the bottom, it’s where you get the charred crispy grain delight.
Wonton noodles
Last but not least, there’s wonton noodles, where thin and pleasantly chewy egg noodles are served in a hot clear broth with subtle umami, and scrumptious dumplings made with flour wrappings and juicy prawns (sometimes with minced pork, depending on the restaurant’s preference). It is unassuming, but it takes years of practice, intuition, and fresh ingredients to cook the perfect bowl.
That’s it for the 3-day getaway to Guangzhou. It’s a city that I’d love to visit again, especially for the Lingnan gardens I didn’t get to explore and the new business districts. Hopefully I can also visit other Chinese cities soon. Hope you enjoy reading this, and see you next time!